String Vibration
A thin string will vibrate faster than a thick one when both are at the same tension. Light strings can move more rapidly, and faster vibration rates produce higher tones. That's why the thinnest strings are used in the treble register and the thickest strings are used in the bass register.
Violin String Adjusters
String adjusters attach to the tail piece and provide fine tuning adjustment. They are required whenever steel strings are used. Gut and synthetic strings do not require strings adjusters but due to convenience, are often used. The first string of the violin is often steel and requires an adjuster. A steel core is often used for all strings on student instruments - requiring strings adjusters for all four strings. Some student instruments also use anti-slip pegs and therefore require strings adjusters - even when using nylon or gut strings. After a period of use, a string adjuster screw may be turned-in as far as it will go (extending out the bottom and touching the violin top). This can cause buzzing noises, dampening of vibration and damage to the violin top. Before this occurs, unscrew the tuner as far as possible and then re-tune the string with the peg.
Violin String Composition
Strings for the violin and other string instruments were originally composed of the small intestines of sheep, commonly referred to as gut. Today gut strings are still preferred by many but other materials are also available.
Perlon: A synthetic fiber called Perlon (strands of silk-like nylon) is often preferred because the strings last longer and stay in tune far better than gut.
Steel: The first string of the violin is almost always steel, even though the remaining strings may have a gut or synthetic core. A complete set of steel strings is also available (particularly for use on student instruments). Steel strings typically have more tension than synthetic strings; many times as much as 20% more tension than gut - putting more downward force on the top of the instrument.
Wound Strings: A set of strings on a given instrument; violin, viola cello, bass, are typically wound (with the occasional exception of gut and excluding the violin E string) with various compositions of metals. Wound strings have an outer wrap over a core made of synthetic material, gut or steel. There are many available metal-wraps used to create different timbres as type of metal used will affect the tone of a given string and thus, the instrument. Aluminum and silver are the most common wraps used although there are many variables:
- Since silver is denser than aluminum thus the string can be brought into tune with less tension
- A chromed-steel wrap will typically produce a brighter sound than when compared with silver
- Alloys such as those including titanium or tungsten are used to obtain specific tonal properties
Violin String Care
- Use a string tuner (Also called a string adjuster).
- A strings’ playing life can be shortened if the grooves in the nut and bridge are not lubricated. To lubricate, use powder graphite or a pencil.
- Strings can also be damaged if the grooves in the nut and bridge are so small that they pinch the strings. Adjustment to the groove size should be referred to an experienced repairman.
- When putting on new strings, do not over-tighten to stretch them. Merely tighten them to pitch and no higher.
- Never test a new string for trueness of pitch and tone against an old string. Old strings are affected by rosin load and user wear, making such tests unreliable. New strings should be checked only against other new strings.
- If a tuning adjuster is used, be sure the hook is smooth and round. Sharp or rough edges on a tuning adjuster will cut strings.
- All strings should be wrapped around the peg three or four times, to improve string grip and prevent breakage at the peg-hole.
Replacing Strings
It is important to remove and replace only one string at a time. This will keep pressure on the top to prevent the soundpost from falling. This will also keep the bridge in the proper position. After removing the string, fasten the new string to the tail piece and attach the other end to the peg. Turn the peg so that the string winds over, not under, the peg. When winding the string around the peg post, make sure that each revolution of the string around the post sits one notch closer towards the peg's thumb piece. If you have adjusted the length of the strings properly, when starting, it will end close to the wall of the peg box as the string reaches pitch. Wind no more string on the peg then the space between the peg and the side wall of the peg box. Too much string on the peg can split the peg box or break the peg.